Biographical Notes |
Note: Margaret was an accomplished pianist. Sshe taught in the school in the family home at Glenunga until she married at the age of 36. She was also a Sunday school teacher for many years, presented with a glass case with silver emu egg flanked by men carrying spears as a wedding gift. Margaret Ferguson married James Umpherston, a 66-year-old widower and family friend at Glenunga on 8.3.1878, the ceremony performed by the Reverend D. Paton, of Chalmers Church. She moved to Mount Gambier to live on the property established by her husband at the Caves. The marriage was childless, as was James Umpherston's first marriage to Janet Arneill. James had been married to his first wife for 35 years and he erected a large memorial to her at Mount Gambier, leaving most of his estate to build a school for girls in memory of his first wife.
James was a family friend, involved with Daniel Ferguson in establishing the South Australian Agricultural and Horticultural Society. He had arrived from Scotland in 1839 and became a successful farmer. In 1869 he purchased 250 acres at Beswicks Farm, near Mt Gambier. It included the cave, which bears the Umpherston name.
Caves Farm was a model farm with a double row of pine trees along the northern boundary, with a driveway of oaks, elms, poplars and pines. James built a new stone house to the south and west of the caves. The larger cave was used for water supply and the stock walked down the track to drink. The home had a garden and shrubbery, conservatory, orchard and flower garden. There was a stone barn with a horse driven thresher for threshing peas, grasses and cereal crops. Stables, servants and men's quarters were built and a large copper boiler was used for boiling house and garden waste for pig food.
James experimented with strains of wheat, using a rotational system with stable manure spread on the paddocks, his herd of pedigree shorthorns grazing on the stubble and grass in the fallow years. By 1884, the land he treated was yielding 40 bushels per acre. The farm attracted attention for its tree planting. There were almost 8,000 trees on the Caves Farm and some of the paddocks were tree-lined. Whitehorn and African Boxhorn trees were trimmed annually into hedges.
When James Umpherston first purchased the caves, it was described as an eyesore. He turned it into a tourist attraction, with ferns, shrubs and trees. A broad footpath was cut from the highest point to the bottom of the cave and a wooden staircase erected where previously there had been a dangerous descent. A 1/3rd of the bottom of the cave was covered with water and a boat was let visitors and friends view the grandeur of the cave. On a small island in the lake, at the bottom of the cave, a Robinson Crusoe type hut was erected to create a fairyland scene.
James employed a gardener to keep the cave and surrounding area immaculate. In 1889, 1,000 people visited the caves over 10 days. A visitor's book, donated to the Mortlock Library by Jean Hartshorne, shows visitors came from all over Australia, England, New Zealand and even Russia and China. They expressed appreciation to Mr Umpherston for allowing public access to the caves, commenting on its beauty. Seasonal fruit were offered, as comments include "the raspberries were nice" and "the figs were better." Family members and friends are mentioned frequently. Violet J Ferguson of Delta Bordertown appears so frequently that a visitor commented he "did not sight Miss Violet today". On 26.10.1895, Violet Ferguson, Dora Clark, Jeannie Rankine, Glen Ferguson, Maggie Carson, Glen Rankine and Alex Ferguson of Bordertown visited the caves. A 2nd entry that day records Glen Rankine, Alex Ferguson, Kate Lambert, Mary McCallum and Winnie McCallum of Tantanoola and Tina McKinnon and Violet Lloyd of Naracoorte. The next day Alex Ferguson, Glen Rankine and Jeannie Rankine again visited the caves. Robert Goldsack wrote on 24.3.1894 "the scenery is beautiful. The water looks wet."
The house where James and Margaret lived has been demolished, but the cave has been restored, excavations revealing the terraced, semi-circular base. Weddings are celebrated amidst ferns, flowering trees and shrubs, creepers covering the walls from top to base, with windows cut in the creepers provide views from the pathway.
James Umpherston took a strong interest in public affairs. In 1861 he fought so vigorously against separation to form another colony with Western Victoria, he was described by one newspaper as "the interminable Umpherston." Umpherston St and Umpherston Caves in Mount Gambier are named after him. He was involved in the local community and local government, holding office on many committees. He was chairman of the Mount Gambier District Council 1865-7 and East Gambier Council 1871-5, as well as serving on the council at other times. He also served in state government, succeeding Adam Lindsay Gordon as the member for the electorate of Victoria in the Legislative Assembly from 1866-8. His platform consisted mainly of improved roads, wide gauge railways, ports and an equitable wastelands system.
A staunch supporter of free trade, he was one of the first to agitate for a railway to Mount Gambier. In an attempt to find markets for unwanted potatoes he was sent to Warrnambool in 1880 to inspect the Farina works, but recommended against establishing a similar enterprise in Mount Gambier. He was elected chairman of the local branch of the Agricultural Bureau of South Australia in 1884, was chairman of the Mount Gambier Caledonian Society in 1886 and started Arbor Day in 1890.
James was a member of the Masonic Lodge, a Justice of the Peace and Elder of St. Andrews Presbyterian Church. He was a committee member of the Agricultural and Horticultural Society for 15 years and President of the Mount Gambier Pastoral and Agricultural Society for 13 years. A trophy in the form of a coffee pot presented to James Umpherston for 1st prize for draught entire horse, mare in field and filly, 2 year old heifer, 1 year old heifer and best mare in the field was donated back by Jean Hartshorne and placed on display at their 1993 show.
James Umpherston died on 28.10.1900, aged 87. The Chronicle noted "The funeral of Mr James Umpherston of "The Caves" took place this afternoon, 85 vehicles and 26 horsemen followed the remains. The Rev R. A. Caldwell, assisted by the Rev. J. Caldwell of Mornington, Victoria, officiated at the graveside. A Colonist of 37 years." His will was 19 pages long, with bequests to various family members and charities. His executors were John Watson, newspaper proprietor of Mt Gambier, his nephew James Umpherston Innes and "my wife Margaret Ferguson Umpherston."
James left Margaret "all that piece of land situated in the Hundred of Blanche, county of Grey being portions of the Allotments 47 and 34 of the subdivision of Section 110 as shown in the Plan on the back of the first page hereof and therein coloured green together with a right of way over Allotment 31 and other part of Allotment 34 as shown in the said Plan and therein coloured Brown, I direct my said Trustees to stand possessed of the same upon trust, to permit my wife Margaret Ferguson Umpherston to use and occupy and enjoy the same during the whole term of her natural life provided that she continues my Widow or with the consent of my said Wife to let the same and to pay the rents thereof to my said wife during her life provided she continues my widow." After her death, the land reverted to his estate.
James left instructions for Margaret "to select for her own absolute use and enjoyment one half in value of my household furniture pictures prints books glass linen and plate and household effects." His nephew could select items worth £50, the remainder to be sold. Nephews and nieces were left money ranging from £50 to £500, often with instructions on how it was to be invested. His brothers could continue to farm land he owned, but it reverted to his estate when they died. The Mt Gambier Ladies Benevolent Fund, which provided "a cottage house for the poor of Mt Gambier" also benefited from his will.
After the death of his wife and brothers, his estate was left to the Presbyterian Church to establish the Umpherston Collegiate School for Girls, in the grounds of St Andrews Presbyterian Church in Mount Gambier in memory of his first wife. Her photograph hung in the college, which opened in 1920. Pupils came from as far as Millicent and Naracoorte to study a curriculum, which included deportment. Umpherston College catered for up to 70 girls at a time, but closed after WW2. It is now Umpherston Kindergarten.
Margaret was a widow at the age of 58, after 22 years of marriage. She returned to Glenunga to live with her brothers and sisters, the community at Mt Gambier giving her a presentation portmanteau when she left. On 23.10.1918, her cousin Lilly Miller wrote "many thanks for your kind letter telling me about dear Mrs Umpherston. I am indeed grieved to hear of her double affliction, which I fear can only grow worse as time goes on. Unless there is any hope of a cure, one can really scarcely wish her life to be prolonged: but I for one shall feel sincerely sorry when our correspondence has to cease."
Margaret died at Glenunga on 18.3.1919, aged 86. She is buried at West Terrace.
She left £2,468, including bequests totalling £505 to her family, close friends and charity. She left £40 to her niece Margaret Collins, £40 each to the children of her brother, Charles Cliff, £40 each to 4 of the daughters of her brother James and £20 to his other daughter, Mrs Janet Earl, £40 to the Rev William Goldsack, of Jessore, India, £50 to her nephew William Ferguson Murdoch, including £25 for acting as trustee, £20 to Mary, wife of Frank Goldsack, £20 to "my friend and companion Miss L Hassam," £10 to Cyril Thomas, £20 to the Home for Incurables at Fullarton, £20 to the Women's Missionary Union and £25 to Francis George Scamell, her trustee. The residue of the estate was divided into three. She left 1/3rd to sister-in-law, Mrs Gilbert Ferguson, to be shared amongst her children, if she died first. One third was shared between William, Robert, Charles Glen, Percy Seymour and James Ritchie Goldsack and May, wife of Frank Goldsack. The other 1/3rd was left to the Presbyterian Inland Mission, apart from a specific bequest of £20 to Barnados.
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